Turning the Corner

I’ve had my kitchen tank set up for over 6 months now and have been trying my hand at an Iwagumi layout.

It’s already grown into a jungle once with Glossostigma and Hairgrass, so I ripped it all out and started over with slower growing Hemianthus callitrichoides and Utricularia graminifolia.  The teardown stirred up so much stuff that it saturated my filter, combined with the coming of Spring and more direct sun on the tank resulted in a disastrous outbreak of green water followed by hair algae which has taken 6-8 weeks to completely get rid of.  Larger, more frequent water changes and rinsing out my filter’s overloaded coarse pad right after the replant would have cut this time in half I’m sure, or prevented it altogether maybe, because as soon as I did that, the tank turned the corner and has starting flourishing again.

So here it is today, slowly filling in that foreground.  HC and UG have been great to maintain, just snip a few fly-aways and replant every week.  Having only Shrimp and Ottos in the tank is essential though, as their root systems just aren’t made to keep them in place when jostled by rooting fish of any size.

The Haigrass I’m fading from front to back.  It’s easy to maintain too, just like mowing the lawn.  I learned from the first growout that it likes to grow forward between the rocks and will smother the lower plants if I let it, so I shave it really low where it’s creeping beyond its territory.

Aqua Forest Aquarium has Mosquito Rasboras in stock and I think this tank could use a good school of them.  They’re so tiny they should be shrimp safe and would add some interesting movement to this tank.  What do you think?

Aquarium Trimming Techniques 101: Stem Plants

Stem plants are usually seen in the background of the tank. If they’re left alone, most will grow to the top of the tank and across the surface or even out of the water!  Because of this, if you’re going to keep stem plants you’re going to need to trim them at some point.  But each species has unique lighting requirements, nutrient preferences, growth rates, and reactions to trimming which you’ll learn as you keep that particular plant for longer.  I hope that this article can help you learn when to use what trimming techniques to keep your stem plants looking their best.

To start, you really only have two choices of where to trim: the top, or the bottom.  You trim from the top of a stem to make minor adjustments in the shape of the group it’s a part of.  You trim from the bottom when you need to make major adjustments to many stems at once, like when a group starts to overshadow shorter plants.  I find that the perfect time to trim is while doing a water change, and when I’m only top trimming that’s enough time to keep everything looking good for the week.  Every month or so the plants get too tall and I have to do a bottom trim which takes a little while longer.  This routine creates a cycle that starts just after the plants have been bottom cut to their minimum height.  As they grow upward, they’re trimmed from the top to maintain the bunch’s shape, and when they get to their maximum height, they’re pulled out, trimmed from the bottom, and the cycle repeats.

Trimming from the Top

When cut from the top, a stem plant will sprout new stems from the end of it, usually just above the highest node left after the cut.  To maintain the slope of a bush, use your scissors to cut an angled plane through the top of the bush.  There’s nothing fancy about it, just bluntly cut in a straight line through the group, like sculpting ice.  Be sure to to cut the whole group at a time so the individuals grow back together evenly, but try not not to cut too low and into the less healthy part of the stems, which will slow their recovery time.  Now your bush doesn’t look as good as it used to, but in a couple weeks it will be twice as dense and shaped more like your vision.

If your bush is growing fine overall, but there are a few strays, trim them slightly above their neighbors.  The injury will slow their grow and allow their neighbors to catch up, keeping the stray more in line.

Replanting the tops that you trim off is a good way to quickly increase its quantity.  Replant them towards the front where you can see them and be sure they’re getting enough light.

Replanting

The physical act of replanting the groups or individuals also requires different techniques for different plants and substrates.  A must-have tool for a stem plant grower is the aquarium tweezers.  Tweezers allow you to grab groups of stems and wedge them securely deep into the gravel without uprooting any other plants nearby.  Your other option is your fingers, which will have to be learned with experience.  Some people suggest burrowing a hole with your finger and slipping the plant in, others say try to push, scoop and swoop technique.  You’ll figure out something that works for you, but none will be as effective at planting groups densely as tweezers, your fingers are just too big.

Trimming the tops of stem plants is where you get the chance can express the most finesse and skill.  You want to trim from the top to tweak the shape of a growing bush.

Not all plants respond well to this type of trimming though, particularly the slower growing types, so be sure to know before doing a bulk top trim on a new plant.  Most will eventually come back and you’ll have two new branches in the end, but the plant will look awkward for a long while until the new branches grow in.

Here is a list of plants that don’t respond well to top trimming:

•    Hygrophilia Corymbosa
•    Ludwigia Repens
•    Ludwigia Glandulosa
•    Ammania Gracilis
•    Polygynum ‘Sao Paulo’

As I said before, trimming from the top of stem plants is where an aquascaper can really express themselves, and it’s impossible to give a definitive guide on how to do it.  When trimming from the top, you’ll do it either in bulk or by individual.

Trimming from the Bottom

You trim the bottom of a stem to change its height to something more desirable for your layout.  To trim stem plants from the bottom, take a group in your hand and hold them such that the tops are relatively in line.  Then cut the entire group at the same location, at the desired distance from the group’s top.   You can use scissors to make the cut, but I haven’t seen any obvious negative effects from ripping groups of smaller stems in my hands.

Finally, replant the group in the gravel using tweezers or your fingers.  See Replanting Stem Techniques for more details.

Maintaining shape

Bulk top trims are used to direct the long term shape of a bush.  By cutting many stems at once, and at specific angles, the aquascaper is laying the groundwork for the future look of the bush.  To do a bulk top trim, leave the plants in their normal location.  Be sure not to disturb how they are normally positioned in the tank as that can throw off the end result, and cut several stems at once, over and over until you have the new shape you like.  You don’t have to be very precise at this; as the plants grow they’ll fill in gaps and slight variances.

To create a bush that rises from front to back, cut the front groups of stems at a low level, the middle third at a slightly higher level, and the rest slightly higher.  It’s important to cut all the stems at one time, or the uncut stems will quickly outgrow the recovering stems and break up the consistency of the bush.

Trimming individual stems from the top is used to reign in strays that are breaking the bush’s shape or shading other plants.  Be sure to cut the stem far enough above the plants around it so the new branches will have access to light while everything uncut is still growing a full speed.  If that’s not possible, you can still cut it from the bottom and replant, or discard as necessary.

Starting over

Eventually your stem plants will reach the surface of the water and it’s time to do a complete bottom trim and start over.  There’s no way to avoid it with large bunches of fast growing stem plants and is essential for maintaining a tank with stems in it over the long run.

When doing a bulk bottom trim, pull them out of the tank in large groups and sort them by similar height: short, medium, and tall; then bottom trim them to the desired height.  Sorting by height will allow you to strategically cut and replant groups of varying height and jumpstart the progression of a terraced look.  Next replant your cut groups into the substrate in “small groups.”  The size of a “small group” here varies from one or two for very wide plants, like Ammania Gracilis and Polygynum Sao Paulo, to a dozen like Rotala Magenta and Rotala Sp ‘Green’.  In the table below are my recommendations for the group size when replanting. Notice that most of the single group plants are also in the list of plants that don’t respond well to top trimming above.

Single – Ammania Gracilis, Polygynum Sao Paulo

Small (3-6) – Ludwigia Glandulosa, Ludwigia Repens

Large (5-10+) – Rotala Macranda, Blyxa Japonica, Rotala Sp ‘Green’, Rotala Magenta, Ludwigia Arcuata

The ADA Substrate System

I went to Aqua Forest Aquarium today, and walked out with 2 boxes full of ADA substrate, an ADA catalog with instructions on how to lay it down, and the International Aquatic Plants Layout 2009 book for inspiration.

ADA Substrate

The two bags on the left are Amazonia Powder, the two on the right are Amazonia, and the one in the middle is Power Sand.  This is what the Aqua Forest Aquarium employee recommended for me to fill my 46 gallon tank and have enough to create a good slope.

Here’s my 46 gallon’s humble beginnings in its new location.  I have a Hydor undergravel heater, so that goes in first.

46 Tank Start

Now that I’ve gotten my hands on the “ADA system,” I can see why it works.  Power Sand is mostly granulated peat and is used to create a small layer across the bottom of the tank.  The granulated peat serves multiple purposes at the bottom of the substrate.  First, its large granules help prevent substrate compaction which can lead to anaerobic pockets that produce sulfuric acid.  I used to think that anaerobic pockets were a myth, but after this tank was running for about 16 months with Flourite it  began having problems, so I’m happy to hopefully not have to worry about that anymore.

Power Sand

The Amazonia and Amazonia Powder are actually more like granulated soil than gravel.  Amazonia Powder has a really small granule size that allows for ground cover plants to grow very fine roots, and Amazonia has a medium granule size which suits deeper rooting plants.  Amazonia II has also been introduced recently, and from reading the catalog, it’s main distinction is that it lowers the pH of your water more than Amazonia.  I’m using Amazonia because I’ll also be injecting CO2 into this tank, but in my 29 gallon tank I’m going to use Amazonia II.  The catalog also talks about Bacter 100, which is a fine dust filled with bacteria that will jump start the ecosystem in your soil.

A Trip to Aqua Forest Aquarium

I’m starting to pick up steam on setting up my aquariums in my new home.  Today I went down to what is probably the best fish store in the country for planted aquariums, Aqua Forest Aquarium.

Today also happened to be the day that Aqua Forest Aquarium received a great writeup in SFGate, one of San Francisco’s best sources for cool things around the city.  I was really excited to see my hobby get covered in the mass media like this, and they did a great job explaining the appeal of it to anyone reading.

SFGate did such a good job that the store was absolutely packed this afternoon, and the workers were swamped with all the people milling around the store, asking questions, and buying.  I heard one of them say “I wish it were like this everyday” as he rushed past me.

Manzanita.com order

Manzanita.com Order

This is what a $75 order (+ shipping) from Manzanita.com looks like.  I had heard about them through one of the forums I read, and their good reputation is well deserved.  I spoke to Travis and it was obvious he had taken many orders like mine before.  I told him I wanted an aquarium pack, and he asked me how big of a tank I had.  I have two very different sized tanks, so I asked for a little bit of everything from the small to the very large.

I’m really happy with the selection I have to work with now.  There are a couple anchor pieces that could be used to create a very dominant presence in any tank, lots of more manageable sized pieces, and 4-5 pieces with very small and intricate branches that I think will be perfect for my 29 gallon tank.