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Aquarium Trimming Techniques 101: Stem Plants

Stem plants are usually seen in the background of the tank. If they’re left alone, most will grow to the top of the tank and across the surface or even out of the water!  Because of this, if you’re going to keep stem plants you’re going to need to trim them at some point.  But each species has unique lighting requirements, nutrient preferences, growth rates, and reactions to trimming which you’ll learn as you keep that particular plant for longer.  I hope that this article can help you learn when to use what trimming techniques to keep your stem plants looking their best.

To start, you really only have two choices of where to trim: the top, or the bottom.  You trim from the top of a stem to make minor adjustments in the shape of the group it’s a part of.  You trim from the bottom when you need to make major adjustments to many stems at once, like when a group starts to overshadow shorter plants.  I find that the perfect time to trim is while doing a water change, and when I’m only top trimming that’s enough time to keep everything looking good for the week.  Every month or so the plants get too tall and I have to do a bottom trim which takes a little while longer.  This routine creates a cycle that starts just after the plants have been bottom cut to their minimum height.  As they grow upward, they’re trimmed from the top to maintain the bunch’s shape, and when they get to their maximum height, they’re pulled out, trimmed from the bottom, and the cycle repeats.

Trimming from the Top

When cut from the top, a stem plant will sprout new stems from the end of it, usually just above the highest node left after the cut.  To maintain the slope of a bush, use your scissors to cut an angled plane through the top of the bush.  There’s nothing fancy about it, just bluntly cut in a straight line through the group, like sculpting ice.  Be sure to to cut the whole group at a time so the individuals grow back together evenly, but try not not to cut too low and into the less healthy part of the stems, which will slow their recovery time.  Now your bush doesn’t look as good as it used to, but in a couple weeks it will be twice as dense and shaped more like your vision.

If your bush is growing fine overall, but there are a few strays, trim them slightly above their neighbors.  The injury will slow their grow and allow their neighbors to catch up, keeping the stray more in line.

Replanting the tops that you trim off is a good way to quickly increase its quantity.  Replant them towards the front where you can see them and be sure they’re getting enough light.

Replanting

The physical act of replanting the groups or individuals also requires different techniques for different plants and substrates.  A must-have tool for a stem plant grower is the aquarium tweezers.  Tweezers allow you to grab groups of stems and wedge them securely deep into the gravel without uprooting any other plants nearby.  Your other option is your fingers, which will have to be learned with experience.  Some people suggest burrowing a hole with your finger and slipping the plant in, others say try to push, scoop and swoop technique.  You’ll figure out something that works for you, but none will be as effective at planting groups densely as tweezers, your fingers are just too big.

Trimming the tops of stem plants is where you get the chance can express the most finesse and skill.  You want to trim from the top to tweak the shape of a growing bush.

Not all plants respond well to this type of trimming though, particularly the slower growing types, so be sure to know before doing a bulk top trim on a new plant.  Most will eventually come back and you’ll have two new branches in the end, but the plant will look awkward for a long while until the new branches grow in.

Here is a list of plants that don’t respond well to top trimming:

•    Hygrophilia Corymbosa
•    Ludwigia Repens
•    Ludwigia Glandulosa
•    Ammania Gracilis
•    Polygynum ‘Sao Paulo’

As I said before, trimming from the top of stem plants is where an aquascaper can really express themselves, and it’s impossible to give a definitive guide on how to do it.  When trimming from the top, you’ll do it either in bulk or by individual.

Trimming from the Bottom

You trim the bottom of a stem to change its height to something more desirable for your layout.  To trim stem plants from the bottom, take a group in your hand and hold them such that the tops are relatively in line.  Then cut the entire group at the same location, at the desired distance from the group’s top.   You can use scissors to make the cut, but I haven’t seen any obvious negative effects from ripping groups of smaller stems in my hands.

Finally, replant the group in the gravel using tweezers or your fingers.  See Replanting Stem Techniques for more details.

Maintaining shape

Bulk top trims are used to direct the long term shape of a bush.  By cutting many stems at once, and at specific angles, the aquascaper is laying the groundwork for the future look of the bush.  To do a bulk top trim, leave the plants in their normal location.  Be sure not to disturb how they are normally positioned in the tank as that can throw off the end result, and cut several stems at once, over and over until you have the new shape you like.  You don’t have to be very precise at this; as the plants grow they’ll fill in gaps and slight variances.

To create a bush that rises from front to back, cut the front groups of stems at a low level, the middle third at a slightly higher level, and the rest slightly higher.  It’s important to cut all the stems at one time, or the uncut stems will quickly outgrow the recovering stems and break up the consistency of the bush.

Trimming individual stems from the top is used to reign in strays that are breaking the bush’s shape or shading other plants.  Be sure to cut the stem far enough above the plants around it so the new branches will have access to light while everything uncut is still growing a full speed.  If that’s not possible, you can still cut it from the bottom and replant, or discard as necessary.

Starting over

Eventually your stem plants will reach the surface of the water and it’s time to do a complete bottom trim and start over.  There’s no way to avoid it with large bunches of fast growing stem plants and is essential for maintaining a tank with stems in it over the long run.

When doing a bulk bottom trim, pull them out of the tank in large groups and sort them by similar height: short, medium, and tall; then bottom trim them to the desired height.  Sorting by height will allow you to strategically cut and replant groups of varying height and jumpstart the progression of a terraced look.  Next replant your cut groups into the substrate in “small groups.”  The size of a “small group” here varies from one or two for very wide plants, like Ammania Gracilis and Polygynum Sao Paulo, to a dozen like Rotala Magenta and Rotala Sp ‘Green’.  In the table below are my recommendations for the group size when replanting. Notice that most of the single group plants are also in the list of plants that don’t respond well to top trimming above.

Single – Ammania Gracilis, Polygynum Sao Paulo

Small (3-6) – Ludwigia Glandulosa, Ludwigia Repens

Large (5-10+) – Rotala Macranda, Blyxa Japonica, Rotala Sp ‘Green’, Rotala Magenta, Ludwigia Arcuata

Aquarium Trimming Techniques 101: Runner

Runner plants grow by creeping along or just below the surface of the substrate and producing nodes of leaves along the way, which makes most of them ideal ground cover.  Aside from their horizontal orientation, trimming runner plants is a lot like trimming stem plants.  A few example of popular runner plants are Glossostigma Elatenoides, Hairgrass, and Chain Sword.

When planting runner plants, it often helps to have a pair of tweezers handy to put individual plants into the substrate.  You will get much broader coverage out of these plants if you spread them out a bit when planting, so distribute whatever quantity you have evenly throughout the space available.

In the early stage of a ground cover, the only problem you have to worry about is runners finding their way into areas that you don’t want them too.  When that occurs, scissors or a razor blade will re-establish a boundary quickly and easily.  Simply cut in a straight line along the border that you want to establish through the mat of runners.  I recommend cutting back with some space to spare so that you don’t have to do it too often.  It also allows for a few runners to grow out of the mat and into the new space, creating an interesting and natural look.

In the middle stage of a ground cover, runners will begin to grow across each other and start to form a mesh or mat.  Maintaining a ground cover mat during the middle stage is a balancing act of keeping the mat from overgrowing itself and allowing it to get thicker.  As the mat gets thicker, older plants can get shaded by new plants growing on top of them and suffer.  To prevent this, be diligent about trimming off the overlapping plants.  If you can’t see where to cut, you can usually pull up slightly on the mat and expose a better angle at the overlapping runners.  During this stage, depending on the plant, you may also “shave” the matt, much like moss, by cutting horizontally across the surface of the map, exposing all the runners to light.  The plants will sense the new light and grow in thicker than before.   The right balance of pulling out individuals, shaving, and allowing the mat to grow will depend on the plant and is learned through experience.

Eventually, like stem plants, runner plants must be periodically pulled out of the substrate in bulk to keep them healthy.   Every plant has its tipping point where it becomes so thick that not everyone can get their share of the light, and the lower regions of the mat will decline as it traps more mulm and becomes a haven for algae.  When this occurs, the only solution is to pull the mat up, vacuum out the accumulated mulm, and replant.  Like spring cleaning, your tank will feel fresh and clean again.

Aquarium Trimming Techniques 101: Rosette Plants

sword

Rosette plants grow leaf stalks that originate from a single point known as the “crown” and generally consist of Sword and Cryptocoryne plants. Typically these plants only need to be trimmed when individual leaves become too old and are deteriorating, often covered with algae. Removing these leaves is good for the long-term health of the individual so it no longer has to support the dying leaf and will grow a new, stronger leaf to replace it.

Cryptocoryne_wendtii

To remove leaves from these plants, just cut the stalk as close to the crown as you can, taking care NOT to cut any others! An even safer method than cutting is to “strip” the stalk by pulling it from crown by gripping it at the base. Your mileage may vary with this technique, depending on the plant you’re working with and how accessible it is in your tank.

Aquarium Plant Trimming Techniques 101

Three years ago I crossed the threshold from algae grower to plant grower when I bought a CO2 system and found an effective way to inject CO2.  (I already had a power compact light, which was probably causing my algae problems, but whatever.)  Now I had the whole package, CO2 and light, and that was a great thing, but according to the timeless saying, “mo money, mo problems” I suddenly had a new problem on my hands: plants growing out of control.  The Hygrophila Polysperma I had at the time started growing an inch a day!

It’s a good problem to have, but I couldn’t find much information about how to control plant growth through trimming, particularly when you’re trying to make them look better than they were before you hacked them to pieces!  So I decided to write a series of articles that I call: “Aquarium Plant Trimming Techniques 101.”  Can you guess what it’s about?  Well I’ll tell you: How and when to use your scissors to keep your plants healthy and looking good in the long term.  In this series I’ll tell you everything I know about trimming plants, and each article will cover one category of plant: Stem, Rosette, Creeping, Moss, Mass, and Rhizome.